The Storied Hill of Şirince: St. John the Baptist Church, Wishing Pool and the 'Çirkince' Legend

The Two Churches of Şirince

When you look at Şirince from a distance, you will see two prominent buildings rising above the white houses. These are the historic churches, remnants of the Greek Orthodox community that lived here before the population exchange of 1923.

1. St. John the Baptist Church (The Upper Church)

Located on the highest hill of the village, St. John the Baptist Church (Aziz Yahya Kilisesi) offers the most spectacular view of Şirince. Unfortunately, the building was neglected for many years, but recent restorations have stabilized it.

• The View: The terrace in front of the church is the best photo spot in town. You can see the entire cascade of houses and the green valley below.
• The Wishing Pool: Inside the courtyard, there is a circular pool known as the "Wishing Pool". The tradition is to throw a coin into the centre hole. If your coin goes in, your wish is granted! You will see many tourists trying their luck.
• Café: Currently, there is a café operating in the church garden. It's a fantastic spot for a Turkish coffee or a glass of local wine while watching the sunset.

How to get there: It is a steep climb. From the main bazaar, follow the signs pointing upwards. Wear comfortable shoes; the cobblestones can be slippery.

2. St. Dimitrios Church (The Lower Church)

Located closer to the village entrance, St. Dimitrios is structurally more intact than St. John. It features impressive frescoes (though faded) and intricate wood carving details remaining from the 19th century.

It is often quieter than the upper church, offering a more contemplative atmosphere. Access is easier, involving less climbing.

The Legend of "Çirkince"

You might hear that Şirince used to be called "Çirkince" (Ugly-ish). Why would anyone call this beautiful place ugly?

According to the legend, the original inhabitants settled here to escape pirates or feudal lords. They wanted to deter outsiders from coming up the mountains. So, when people asked, "What is your village like?", they would reply, "Oh, it's quite ugly (Çirkince)."

The name stuck for centuries. It was only in 1926, by the decree of the then-governor of Izmir, Kazım Dirik, that the name was officially changed to Şirince (Cute/Pretty-ish) to reflect its true beauty.

"The End of the World" Fame (2012)

Şirince gained unexpected global fame in December 2012. According to a specific interpretation of the Mayan Calendar, the world was supposed to end on December 21, 2012. Believers claimed that only two places on Earth would be spared: Bugarach in France and Şirince in Turkey (due to supposed positive energy fields).

Tens of thousands of people flocked to the village. Tom Cruise was rumoured to be coming (he didn't). In the end, nothing happened, and the world spun on. But the event cemented Şirince's place on the international tourism map.